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Montezuma Tower (1)/(2)

Statistics

  • Date - 10/11/2010
  • Elevation - 6,580'
  • Route - North Ridge
  • Miles - 0.3
  • Elevation Gain - 300'
  • ACME Mapper - Link
  • CalTopo - Link
  • Partners - Brian Kooienga

Description

Brian and I both work in the banking industry and had Columbus Day off.  Since it's too late for alpine rock and too early for ice, we settled on rock climbing at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs, Colorado.  After driving to the Garden of the Gods and getting our free climbers permit at the visitors center, we made the short approach to the base of the north ridge of Montezuma Tower.  As we got to the tower, another party of two was just bailing off the route due to the somewhat run out nature of the climb.  Although this didn't instill a lot of confidence in us, the ridge didn't look too bad so Brian and I geared up to give it a go.  Brian and I each led the pitch on what we considered a worthwhile climb.

The north ridge of Montezuma Tower is essentially a sport climb that is moderately run out in between huge eyebolts, fixed pins, and one climbing bolt.  I thought the crux of the route is about 15 feet off the deck before you get to the first large eyebolt.  Brian and I thought this was the only 5.7 move on the route, and I think Brian even questioned that.  The arete is narrow and exposed, but steps have been carved into the friction moves reducing the difficulty quite a bit.  We still thought is was a fun climb.  The climb can easily be done with one 60 meter rope; however, you likely won't be able to rappel to the ground with it and a tag line is required to get back down.  After we took our turn leading the route, we returned to Highlands Ranch, Colorado, to celebrate Columbus Day at the Rio with margaritas and Coronas.

Photos

James leading the pitch.James leading the pitch.BrianSummit PhotoGarden of the GodsBrian RappelBrian RappelBrian leading the pitch.Brian leading the pitch.Brian leading the pitch.Brian leading the pitch.Brian leading the pitch.Brian RappelJames RappelMontezuma TowerMontezuma TowerJamesBrian