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Description
I couldn't find a hiking partner for Friday, so I decided to attempt a mellow snow climb that was on my to do list. I had not been to Mount Democrat since 2003, and I started hiking from Montgomery Reservoir at 5:30. I hiked up the drainage north of Mount Lincoln on a relatively dry road with minimal snow for over two miles. As I turned southwest below Wheeler Lake, I left the road and my objective came into view as I began to hike on firm snow the rest of the way up the valley. I was initially going to climb the North Couloir on Mount Democrat. However, as I got closer to the base of the mountain, it became apparent that there was a continuous snow line straight up the north face that was longer than the couloir and would take me directly to the summit.
After determining that it was within my abilities, I decided to climb the north face direct which ended up being a really fun and long snow climb. I made the summit of Democrat and then traversed to Cameron and Lincoln before descending east in the Lincoln Amphitheater and making my way back down to Montgomery Reservoir at 1:00. Snow conditions on the approach and up the shallow couloir were in good conditions for late May on a north face.
Photos
Mount Democrat
Mount Democrat
Approach
Start of the snow climb.
Looking down the initial constriction of the route.
Looking up the route.
Valley I hiked to the peak.
Scramble
Kicking Steps
Final section to the summit.
Progress
Mount Lincoln and Mount Cameron from Mount Democrat
Mount Arkansas North Couloir
Summit Photo (Mount Democrat)
Mount Democrat and the snow climb I had just completed.
Summit Photo (Mount Cameron)
Mount Democrat and Mount Cameron from Mount Lincoln
The couloir on the east face of Mount Lincoln I climbed a month ago.